Uneven
Comfort: Firefly
Once nouvelle cuisine became passé and
everyone tired of plates that looked like miniature skyscrapers
run amok, we found that what we really wanted was the same old things
our mothers made…only better.
Eat the World: Pomelo
Pomelo eschews allegiance to a single culinary tradition in favor
of an exercise in whimsical dissonance. Culled from a panoply of
both revered and little-known cuisines – French, Filipino,
Mexican, Sri Lankan, Italian, Cuban, etc. – the dishes are
for the most part "greatest hits": quesadillas, French
onion soup, pancit, beans and rice.
Let Them Eat Soufflé
I always thought soufflés were supposed to be some pinnacle
of culinary achievement, a little archaic perhaps, but definitely
best left to those educated at the Cordon Bleu. They were for special
occasions – delicate, fragile, and fleeting – and it
seemed pure hubris to think I could ever make one myself.
Season’s Eatings
In my family, food is the holiday. Although we were raised
Buddhist, we celebrated any occasion, sacred or profane, that might
involve food. We had no idea who Jesus was, but Christmas was a
good excuse for a big meal. “We don’t celebrate Jesus.
We celebrate Santa,” my mom reasoned.
[This essay appears in The
Metro, Silicon Valley's Weekly Newspaper on November 6, 2003]
The Unbearable Lightness of
Ice Cream
In a desperate effort to squeeze the dregs of summer’s promise
from a stingy San Francisco (three months of fog, wind and chill
followed by a scant few weeks of blazing sun), I rallied a team
of intrepid taste testers and set out to find the best the city
has to offer of that most iconic summer treat: ice cream.
From Laundry to Market
My boyfriend Oliver had become fascinated with The French Laundry
after reading a book about Chef Thomas Keller. Two months in advance,
after at least an hour of tenacious redialing, I secured an 11:00
a.m. lunch reservation at the French Laundry for his birthday. Although
not exactly a destination for the spontaneous, we knew it would
be worth the wait.
Jai Yun – Eggplant Surprise
Jai Yun has single-handedly restored novelty, mystery and a sense
of culinary adventure to my jaded palette.
Some Enchanted Evening: Limon
Casual but chic, Limon (3316 17th between Mission and Valencia)
is moderately priced and has a limited, but well-balanced (unless
you are vegetarian, then it's slim pickins) menu, providing a comfortable,
low-stress dining experience for that rare San Francisco occurrence:
a hot summer evening.
On Leftovers
In a time when the temptation to jump the gravy train to obesity
lurks around every corner, how can you get the most for your money,
keep your taste buds suitably entertained, and maintain that girlish
figure? Leftovers. They’re what’s for dinner...and lunch...and
breakfast...
[An edited version of this essay appeared in The
Metro, Silicon Valley's Weekly Newspaper on July 23, 2003]
Power to the Pudding:
Memories of Bread and Assimilation
I have been haunted by a Strawberry Brioche Bread Pudding. Since
my first visit to Tartine Bakery (in San Francisco’s Mission District)
four days ago, I have been unable to stop thinking about it. I dream
about it at bedtime; I crave it when I wake up. At random moments,
I find my thoughts turning ever so irresistibly to visions of its
mushy, eggy, strawberry sweetness.
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